For shipments outside of the Continental US, please contact our office for a shipping quotation by providing your shipping address.

 

Most car and truck enthusiasts are quick to add more power, install more efficient brakes or change wheel and tires combos but haven’t given a second thought of upgrading the vehicle’s lights. A typical enthusiast assumes that light upgrades are mostly for desert and off-road racers or truck drivers. The typical response to an upgrade lighting system experience is “How did I drive without these for so long”. Driver fatigue is greatly reduced and safety is greatly increased. Your drive will feel more relaxed and seem to go by faster when you reduce the typical strain of night driving. Taking your car or truck out at night without upgraded lighting is like going for one more ride with bad brakes. It’s just not safe.

 

 

 

 

Homogenous Illumination; The best combination of distance, width and height all being evenly illuminated in intensity (Lux) and color (Kelvin) as possible. The object of your vehicles lighting is to illuminate as large an area in the front of the driver as evenly as possible to give as much clear visibility as possible. The most efficient lights create the best balance of these properties. We’ve all seen other drivers whose headlights are intensely bright when viewed directly in front, but have little lateral illumination. An imbalance like this can actually reduce visibility instead of increasing it. An area with too much light (overexposed) can actually reduce visibility. Our eyes continually react to the best light available and like a very sophisticated camera with auto exposure they naturally adjust to the best light available to them. An over exposed area can reduce visibility in the poorly illuminated areas the same as too little light in too small an area affects visibility.

 

 

 

 

The object of our vehicles lighting system is to illuminate the largest area in the direction of travel as possible. Potential hazards illuminated evenly at the optimum Lux and kelvin allows our eyes to focus as quickly as possible. The intensity (Lux) and the color (kelvin) of that light are the determining factors in how quickly our eyes can clearly focus. Eye strain is a major contributing factor to driver fatigue. The more quickly and clearly our eyes focus will determine hazard perception time, driver reaction time and ultimately driver fatigue. The best lighting systems take into consideration both headlights and driving/fog lights to achieve optimal results for all driving conditions. A good example is LED lights with multiple intense LEDs and high kelvin light output can be good for slow desert driving in confined spaces at low speed, but are highly inadequate for higher speed or highway applications and can actually reduce our distance visibility due to short range overexposure and long range underexposure. In other words they would exhibit poor Homogenous Illumination.

 

 

Vehicle lighting has progressed tremendously over the years. Even with these advancements, we are still limited to the amount of power (12 volts) we have to power them. We must create the best combination of Lux and Lumen and we must consider the direction and spread or concentration of light. We must do all this while ensuring the light does not interfere with other driver’s ability to see. This where a light’s lens and reflectors come into play. The reflector will take the light source and project it into the desired focal point. The lens defines the area in both height and width that the light will project to. The combination of the light source, the reflector and the lens will determine the output accuracy and a clear, sharp division from lit areas to non lit areas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A common misconception is that color temperature (kelvin) equates to brightness. This is not the case. The color temperature is only a reference to the color of the light output. To give you a reference of light colors we’ve assembled a list of typical items and their approximate light color on the kelvin scale.

 

 

 

 

• 1700 K: match

• 1850 K: candle

• 2700-3300 K: incandescent light bulb

• 3500 K: 100W Halogen light bulb

• 4100 K: moonlight

• 4200 K: 100W Xenon light bulb

• 5000 K: horizon daylight

• 5500-6000 K: daylight

 

As you can see, the lower on the kelvin scale the yellower the light. The higher you go on the kelvin scale the whiter the light is

 

 

Watts? Lux? Lumen?

 

 

 

 

watt•age n.

1. An amount of power, especially electric power, expressed in watts or kilowatts.

2. The electric power required by an appliance or device.

 

 

 

 

lumen

Plural; lumens or lumina

The derived unit used to measure the amount of light passing through a given area per second. One lumen is equal to the luminous flux passing per unit solid angle from a light source with a strength of one candela.

 

 

 

 

lux

A derived unit of illuminance in photometry, equal to one lumen per square meter.

 

 

 

 

Wattage does not affect the amount of light output. Watts measure the amount of power used by a given object. In this case the light bulb. Obviously the more power consumed by the bulb the greater the ability to produce light. The most accurate way to measure lights efficiency is to use lux and lumens to objectively measure a performance.

 

 

 

 

Lumen is not as complicated as the above definition eludes. In laymen’s terms, think of lumens as the total amount of light visible in a beam (flux) emitted from the source. This factor alone does not determine how well a light fixture illuminates the road or an object. It merely quantifies the amount of light output projecting from the fixture.

 

 

 

 

Lux tells us the amount of light projected over a given area. As you can see from the above definition, lux is the measurement of lumens over 1 square meter. An example of how lux defines a lights projection can be stated like this example; a light that has a light output of 1,000 lumens and covers 1 square meter will illuminated that meter to 1,000 lux. Take the same light and illuminate 10 square meters. The light will now have illuminated the 10 square meters to 100 lux.

We hope this clarifies some common terms and concepts regarding vehicle lighting.

 

 

Q: What is the difference between Halogen and Xenon?

 

 

A: Halogen technology stems from late ‘60’s and although a superior light to incandesces bulb technology, it is inferior to current technology of Xenon and HID for today! The Xenon gas mixture used in Xenon bulbs burns roughly 20% brighter than traditional halogen gas mixed bulbs, thereby allowing the filament to burn hotter for a better light.

 

 

Q: What is Kelvin?

 

 

A: Light brightness is measured in a “Kelvin” scale. Daylight rates at roughly 5,500K.

 

 

Q: Tell me the difference between the color of Halogen and Xenon lights. And what is the purpose of adapters in the kits that come with them?

 

 

A: The color difference is around 1,000K, over 25% brighter between Halogen and Xenon. We provide HI3 adapters for Quadbar (Delta part# 01-1198-50X) and DOT (01-1148-50X) models only when these models are used on Jeep Wrangler (2007-current). Our headlights that are equipped with H4 bulbs need to use adapters to convert the HI3 factory harness.

 

 

Q: What is the purpose of adapters in the headlight kits?

 

 

A: We provide adapters for Quad-Bar headlights for JEEP JK, 1148 Series & 1149 Series, to convert our H4 system to H13 factory wiring harness. We also provide adapters for HUMMER H2 applications for our 1149 Series and 1159 Series to convert our H4 system to 9007 factory wiring harness.

 

 

Q: What is the difference between Xenon and HID?

 

 

A: HID is by far the most effective “long range” light available on the market today. It produces a light that is registered at 6,000K, near “daylight”! For anyone doing long, night driving, HID are the most effective, easiest on the eyes for those long dark drives HID do require a ballast to power the high output lights.

 

 

Q: I just purchased a set of your headlights and it has a miniature bulb inside, what is that for?

 

 

A:: If you purchased a headlight with “city lights” it is designed to be an auxiliary light to use at your will and comes with a “parking light” already it. However, if it comes with a “-50AX” it is equipped with an auxiliary “parking light”. See Headlight Supplement for complete list of other auxiliary lighting options (Supplemental Installation Instructions - City) .

 

 

Q: I have moisture collecting in my lights?

 

 

A: Although our lights are well protected, there is a good chance some water can get trapped inside. This can be a simple effect from condensation collecting on the inside from simple day / night temperature changes. Best thing would be to remove the headlight and the backing to the headlight to allow it to “air out”. DO NOT use any object to “wipe away” on the inside as you will scratch the headlight! Once it has “aired out” re-seal the unit and re-install back into the vehicle.

 

 

Q: I’d like to run your lights upside down, is that ok?

 

 

A: In the Flex Series lights you would need to use a heat gun or heat source to soften the cover where it will become pliable enough to remove the lens and re-insert it with the arrow facing upward. This will allow for proper venting (eliminate water accumulation) of the light as well as optimal illumination.

 

 

Q: What is the role of the relay?

 

 

A: It is advisable to use a relay any time you use halogen or xenon lights due to the amp draw. The relay “directs” the 12volt power to your lights so you don’t lose the effectiveness throughout the wire, allowing maximum output for maximum effectiveness.

 

 

Q: I just purchased your relay and was wondering how do I install?

 

 

A: If your kit came without a wiring diagram, then connect the following way: Prong#87 and #87A to your headlights, Prong #85 to your switch, Prong #86 to your ground and Prong #30 to your battery. NOTE: Be sure to use a 20amp inline fuse w/ relay & 12volt battery. (Insert Ricardo’s new diagram).

 

 

Q: What is Delta’s Warranty Program on the products?

 

 

A: Please click here to see Delta's warranty policy.

 

 

Q: What’s covered under the one-year warranty vs. five-year warranty?

 

 

A: Lights Fixtures & Bars carry a 5-Year Warranty on material & labor, not wear and tear such as exposure to everyday elements i.e. Salt water. All light sources (bulbs), HID elements & ballasts as well as the metal finish (Black or Chrome) carries a 1-Year Warranty.

 

 

Q: What if my Light Bar has developed some corrosion after 2-years, will your 5-year warranty cover it?

 

A: Yes provided there is no evidence of misuse or abuse of the product.

 

 

Q: What if my HID Light(s) start blinking or doesn’t ignite at full power?

 

A: All HID components and any light burner / bulb are only covered for (12) months. With the symptoms you are experiencing, most like the HID burner will need to be replaced.

 

 

Q: If my product is under warranty, what do I need to do to send it back?

 

 

A: Email the Technical Department at [email protected] along with a copy of your receipt and a brief description of the problem. From there you will receive a RGA Form on further instructions for handling your product.

 

 

Q: What is considered street legal?

 

 

A: All Auxiliary lights (55 watt) or lower are legal to DOT standards, provided the installer follows SAE & local State Law recommendations. (Mounting of lights on vehicles requiring covers on the lights, etc) As with our headlights, Delta stamps a DOT mark on all lenses which are DOT compliant. In addition, Delta stamps ECC for our international customers who require a ECC code to be compliant.

 

 

Q: Which lights do I want, Fog or Driving?

 

 

A: Fog lights are the lights which give you increased “peripheral” vision of your surroundings which can be very beneficial in bad weather conditions and winding roads. With almost 6X the wider range than traditional headlights, Fog Lights give you that wider picture. As for Driving Lights, those are designed to be more focused for increased “braking distance” when traveling open roads. Driving Lights give you that focused beam that does not allow your car to “out drive” the headlights. This is a very common issue with highway driving when people put the cruise on and do not realize they have “outdrive” their headlights. Meaning, if they see something in their headlights, the car would be going too fast to stop. Driving Lights gives you that extra distance!

 

 

Q: I purchased your product some time ago and need some replacement parts, stone guards, light covers, replacement lens, etc where can I get those parts?

 

 

A: All replacement parts are available on our website under “Parts & Accessories” Tab. Please visit that page and you should find whatever parts you need replacing. If you do not, please email [email protected].

 

 

Q: I seem to have an issue with bulbs burning out, is it my lights?

 

 

A: Voltage spikes are deadly to any electrical equipment, therefore it is important to ensure your wiring is clean and grounded and has no potential voltage spikes to harm the bulb(s). If your bulb is victim of a voltage spike, it will have a “black burst” on the inside indicating it got too “hot”. Remember, bulbs are like disposable razors, have a spare! NOTE: Do not touch Xenon / HID or Halogen bulbs with your bare hands as any oil on bulbs could cause it to boil and crack which could cause harm.

 

 

Q: How much power does the Hummer 10X Bar draw?

 

 

A: 440 watts, if all (8) lights are engaged.

 

 

Q: How much power does the Xenon SKYBAR draw?

 

 

A: Xenon SkyBar with (6) lights will draw up to 330 watts with an option to reduce it down to 110 watts by using the dual harness which was provided in your kit.

 

 

Q: How much power does the HID SKYBAR draw?

 

 

A: HID SkyBar with (4) lights will draw up to 140 watts, while drawling less than 12amps!

 

 

Q: OE Industry standards call for fog lamps to be activated with Low Beam Headlights while Driving lights to activate with Hi Beam Headlights, is this a requirement?

 

 

A: SAE recommendations specify this standard for safety. However, our system allows you to operate your standard auxiliary lights at your will with stand alone wiring to a toggle switch. Our fog lamps come with a standalone wiring system because we could not depend on factory wiring being able to handle our 55 Watt light source. Factory wiring was designed to handle up to 35 Watt and drawing any more could cause overheating. In our opinion, this regulation is less than logical since high beams only provide long range illumination while sacrificing immediate distance peripheral vision which fog lights provide. But if you need to comply with this regulation you could have your installer splice our blue (switch wire) into a factory switch wire to gain such switching control. Since a switch alone carries no significant amp draw, you should not experience any problem with overheating.

 

 

Q: Why did the lens crack on my xenon fog lamps after cleaning them with icy snow while they were still on?

 

 

A: First of all you shouldn't do it while the lights are on or are very hot. Thermal shock in excess of 120 degrees Fahrenheit can cause glass lens to crack. For the same reason you should never attempt to melt ice on your windshield with boiling water. You should always clean off lens when they are cool and not susceptible to cracking due to hot / cold temperature change.

 

 

Q: Why didn't my headlights crack after I cleaned them with icy snow while they were still on and hot?

 

 

A: The fact that your headlights did not crack was only due to the fact that headlight bulb is at a further distance from the lens plus it has a large metal reflector which provides a greater heat sink thus lowering the overall temperature even further.

 

 

Q: Are DELTA fog lights legal to use with factory high beam headlights?

 

 

A: Our fog lamps come, as you know, with a standalone wiring system because we could not depend on factory wiring being able to handle our 55 Watt light source. Factory wiring was designed to handle up to 35 Watt and drawing any more could cause overheating. In our opinion, this regulation is less than logical since high beams only provide long range illumination while sacrificing immediate distance peripheral vision which fog lights provide. But if you need to comply with this regulation you could have your installer splice our blue (switch wire) into a factory switch wire to gain such switching control. Since a switch alone carries no significant amp draw, you should not experience any problem with overheating.

 

 

Q: What is LED technology good for, driving lights?

 

 

A: LEDs have become very popular with widespread use for “signaling” or “flood light” illumination. LED draw less amps than halogen or xenon lights so they are more energy efficient for signaling and flood light illumination. However, in order to increase its long range distance, LED requires “high output” thus producing extreme heat at the sacrifice of amps. Another downside, to reduce heat of the LED, you will need to add a “heat sink” to reduce the heat being generated by LED lights, which adds additional weight to the vehicle.

 

 

Q: What are your headlights made of?

 

 

A: Our headlights are made of prismatic lead crystal glass lens, vacuum metalized steel reflector, bulb / burner and protective boot.

 

 

Q: What is the application for H4/H13 Adapters for your headlights?

 

 

A: We developed a H4/H13 Adapter for our headlights as they come with H4 connectors however many vehicles require H13. This allows our customers who have H13 light source to use our Headlights with H4 connectors. Those that do not have H13 do not receive an adapter.

 

 

Q: Will your Lug Nut Lights fit my vehicle?

 

 

A: Our “Lug Nut Brake Light Kit” was designed to fit the lug nut holes on your spare tire. When spliced into a 3rd Brake Light, it provide a cleaner solution to your OE 3rd Brake Light. If your spare tire does not have a 3/4 inch lug hole, it may require some customization of the boot.

 

 

Q: Are your headlights DOT approved?

 

 

A: DELTA's 1149 and 1159 series headlights are DOT compliant. NOTE: HID versions are not DOT compliant at this time.

 

 

Q: I purchased your Super SkyBar, SkyBar, Hood Bar and wanted to know what lights I needed to replace my damaged lights?

 

 

A: Both our Hood Bars and SkyBars use 45H Series driving lights which have been modified to fit into the bar. For replacement lens, order Part # 06-4579-01. Under this part number, you will receive a lens, reflector, housing retaining the lens and bulb holder unit.

 

 

Q: I hear from some other “Jeepers” that some headlights include a silicone ring, how come mine does not?

 

 

A: If you have a JEEP JK and your ordered 01-1148-50X then you should have a silicone ring. However, the rest of our JEEP Headlights do not require a silicone ring.

 

 

Q: I have purchased a new JEEP and removed my SkyBar from my old JEEP but now I need a new wiring harness, where can I find a replacement harness?

 

 

Part # 05-9570-6BX for JEEP TJ/JK Skybar & Super Skybar

Part # 05-9064-34 for 4X “Bullet” Skybar

Part # 05-9060-34 for 10X bar.

 

 

Q: What is the difference between a “Classic” headlight and “Euro Style” headlight?

 

 

A: The “Classic” headlight comes with a dome shaped convex lens reminiscent of old style headlights while our “Euro Style” headlight comes with a flat lens and is more reminiscent of the European stylish, flat look.

 

 

Q: What is the purpose of the Quad-Bar Headlight vs. standard Delta Headlights?

 

 

A: Quad-Bar Headlights were designed for JEEP & Military applications. Equipped with steel support arms inside the lens reflector and an additional outer black ring for outer protection, they are ideal for extreme off-road driving conditions. They allow you to have a functional light even after you’ve taken a rock or stone into the headlight!

 

 

Q: I have already purchased a DELTA Xenon SkyBar and wanted to upgrade to HID, is that possible to do with my existing SkyBar?

 

 

A: Yes you can, however, only if your Xenon SkyBar has a 3” deep base to allow enough room to install the HID ballast internally. Otherwise, you will have to remove mount the HID ballast.

 

 

Q: Can I modify the HID power cable to extend the length required for my installation?

 

 

A: You may not alter the length of the power cable or you will destroy the product and void the warranty. NOTE: Never splice or cut your “high voltage” power cable for HID ballast. (The cable length is roughly 15”)

 

 

Sign up for our newsletter.

 

CLICK HERE FOR OUR DEALER APPLICATION FORM

 

CLICK HERE FOR OUR DEALER APPLICATION FORM